The EditWhere to swim: wild Mediterranean coves
Five swims worth the walk, the kayak or the scramble, from a Sardinian gorge to a sea pool on Thasos.
Field NotesOn the Caravaggio trail in Naples
Three buildings, one short walk through the old centre, and the work a wanted man left behind.
The EditThe Places Asking to Leave the UNESCO List
World Heritage status was meant to be an honour for ever. For a growing list of villages and cities, from a Slovak hamlet to the Venetian lagoon, it has become a reason to ask for the exit.
The TableThessaloniki's table, before Michelin
Greece's northern capital joins the Michelin Guide in 2026. First, the table it built long before anyone kept score.
The TableMpoumpas, and a Hundred Years of Epirus Meat
From a village in Pogoni to a boutique counter in Kifisia, a family has spent a century refusing to be a middleman. They raise the animals, age the beef, and put their own name over the door.
The Tableenkel.kaffe, and the Hard Work Behind a Simple Cup
In Peristeri, a large district of western Athens with a coffee culture of its own, a national latte art champion and his brother named their place the Swedish word for simple. The cup is anything but.
On the RisePelion, the Mountain With Two Seas
A hook of Thessaly held between a calm gulf and the open Aegean, where stone villages, chestnut woods and a small antique train still keep the pace honest.
The TableBread B.C., and the Slow Proof of Chalandri
A filmmaker's lockdown habit and a Spondi-trained baker's decade-old starter meet on an ordinary street in northern Athens, where the dough is given a day and a half before it is allowed to become bread.
The TableBurro, and the Slow Morning of Ostuni
In the white maze of Ostuni, a morning-only café reads more Copenhagen than Puglia, until the food arrives. Then the name, butter, starts to make sense.
Field NotesIngbert Brunk, and the Marble That Kept Him on Naxos
A German sculptor came to Naxos as a student in 1984, fell for the island's translucent white marble, and never left. Forty years on, he still works the same stone as the ancient kouroi.
The ObjectBowers & Wilkins Px8, the headphones we travel with
The flagship noise-cancelling pair, judged as a piece of luggage rather than a gadget.
On the RiseCasa Massina, and the Quiet Rise of Lake Kerkini
Greece's great bird lake was always a day trip. A small, design-minded room in the village of Ano Poroia is the first real reason to stay the night.
Ground TruthThe Mistral, the Wind That Scours Provence
A cold wind out of the north that funnels down the Rhone, scrubs the sky clean and quietly decides how Provence is built and planted.
The TableOenogenesis and the Wine Called Ten
In Doxato, Bakis Tsalkos put Drama on the wine map, then built an estate around Deka: a white made to age, in a country that rarely tries.
The EditThe New Cycladic Design Hotels of 2026
Five island openings, from Milos to Paros, where the architecture is the reason to go rather than the afterthought.
Field NotesJeff Koons and the Ancient Venus, Athens
A mirror-polished balloon Venus meets ten Paleolithic figurines at the Museum of Cycladic Art, a dialogue across some twenty-five thousand years.
Ground TruthThe Meltemi, and Why the Cyclades Look the Way They Do
The summer wind that strips the islands bare, leans the churches, and decides where you can and cannot swim.
The TableNaoussa and the Xinomavro grape
Greece's first appellation makes a pale, ferocious red that ages like Barolo and sells for a fraction. On the slopes of Vermio, the secret is still holding.
On the RiseThe Itria Valley, Where Puglia Slows Down
Trulli, masserie and a stretch of southern Italy learning to be discovered on its own terms.
Field NotesThe Spa, Rewired
Inside Nao at Minos Palace: DNA tests, a cryo chamber and a brain gym, and a massage that lands as treatment.
The ObjectA Cashmere Antidote to the Long Haul
Loro Piana's Travel Set treats the cabin as somewhere worth surviving in comfort, and worth keeping for years.
On the RiseMessinia, where the Odyssey comes home
Nolan filmed Homer's coast here. Go now, before the world reads the same map.
The ObjectThe Suitcase Without Rivets
Ten years into the Horizon line, Marc Newson has removed the one detail every aluminium case was supposed to need.
The TableSantorini's Volcanic Table, Before the Stars Land
Michelin arrives on the island in 2026; we taste the terroir that made it inevitable.
Field NotesVenice, In Minor Keys
Koyo Kouoh did not live to open her Biennale; we go to read the exhibition she finished anyway.
The EditThe Museum Openings Reshaping the Mediterranean in 2026
From a long-delayed Cairo colossus to quiet additions to the Athenian shoreline, the year's most consequential museum debuts ring the inland sea.
On the RiseZagori, the Greece That Stayed Quiet
Two years after UNESCO listed its stone villages, mountain Epirus is finally easy to reach, and still, for now, unhurried.
The ObjectA Quiet Watch for Crossing Time Zones
Laurent Ferrier's Sport Traveller does the one thing a travel watch must do, and almost nothing else.
The TableCrete Reads Itself in Olive Oil, in a Thirsty Year
The island's defining oil is also its most exposed crop, and the past two harvests have shown why.
Field NotesThe Acropolis Reopens Its First Museum
On the sacred rock itself, a long-shuttered museum returns this spring with 1,185 objects shown for the first time.
The EditThe Mediterranean Wine Regions We Are Drinking Now
Volcanic slopes, high-altitude island vines and revived native grapes: where the basin's most interesting bottles are coming from this year.
On the RiseThe Albanian Riviera, Caught in the Act
A new tunnel opened the southern coast in a single summer; the question now is whether it can hold its nerve.
The ObjectRimowa Learns to Speak Leather
With a muted blue and its first all-leather case, Rimowa edges away from the aluminium grooves that made it.
The TableTinos Is Building a Cuisine, Not Maintaining One
While the Cyclades chase Michelin, a quieter island is being shaped plate by plate around its own ingredients.
Field NotesTroy Comes to the Colosseum
Rome reopens the question of its own origins with 300 objects, many lent by Türkiye and never before seen in Italy.
The EditThe Train Journeys Worth Taking This Year
New night routes and revived coastal lines that make the slow approach to the Mediterranean the better part of the trip.
No pieces in this column yet, more on the way.