Five Mediterranean amphitheatres where the old stone still fills up after dark, and what i
The Edit

The summer stages: ancient theatres worth the journey in 2026

Photo: Orlovic, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Five Mediterranean amphitheatres where the old stone still fills up after dark, and what is playing this summer.

There is a particular pleasure in watching a performance in a theatre built more than two thousand years ago, when the light finally drops and the stone holds the last of the day's heat. The acoustics were solved before anyone thought to write the science down. A whisper from the orchestra reaches the top row, and for a few hours you sit where audiences have sat since antiquity.

We keep a short list of the summer festivals that use these places properly, not as backdrops for a photograph but as working stages. Here are five across the Mediterranean, with dates confirmed and one thing worth going for at each. Book the seats before the good nights sell, and take a cushion. The stone is honest about that too.

  1. Epidaurus, Argolid. The Athens Epidaurus Festival runs at the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus from 20 June to 29 August, its programme still built around the Greek tragedies for which the place was made. The news this year is the return of opera to that stage for the first time this century, with the Greek National Opera reviving Cherubini's Medea on the opening night. The fourth-century acoustics remain the reason people make the drive from Athens.
  2. Arena di Verona. The 103rd Arena di Verona Opera Festival fills the Roman amphitheatre from 12 June to 12 September, some fifty nights of opera under an open sky. The season marks a century since the premiere of Turandot with a return of the Zeffirelli production, alongside two stagings of Aida and an opening Traviata. Twenty thousand seats and a hush that somehow still falls.
  3. Chorégies d'Orange, Provence. France's oldest lyric festival plays at the Roman theatre of Orange, whose great stone stage wall Louis XIV is said to have called the finest in his kingdom. The 2026 season, from 19 June to 18 July, keeps a single opera night: Verdi's La Traviata on 4 July, with Nadine Sierra as Violetta and Ludovic Tézier as Germont. One evening only, so it will go quickly.
  4. Teatro Antico, Taormina. The Greco-Roman theatre above Taormina looks straight out at Etna and the Ionian, which is the kind of scenery no set designer would dare invent. Taormina Arte spreads opera, ballet and concerts across the terraces from July into September, with Puccini's Tosca and Rossini's Barber of Seville among the staged nights. Arrive early enough to watch the volcano while the seats fill.
  5. Spoleto, Festival dei Due Mondi. Umbria's hill-town festival returns for its 69th edition, from 26 June to 12 July, the first under the new artistic director Daniele Cipriani and gathered this year under the theme of Roots. Opera, dance and theatre take over the Roman theatre and the piazzas of Spoleto at once, which is the appeal: a whole town turned into a stage for a fortnight rather than a single grand house.
The Edit is a VANE Bearings column. We choose the way we choose hotels, on our own terms, with no placement bought. Photo: Orlovic, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).
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