Ammothines is built in the plain Cycladic language and the island's own white marble, softened with earthy plaster, pale wood and linen. The suites are quiet and uncluttered, arranged around a pool, a few steps back from the beach behind the grasses. There is nothing shouting here, no theme and no spectacle, only good materials, the right light and a great deal of sand. It calls itself unpretentious luxury, and for once the phrase fits: this is a place built to disappear into the landscape rather than dominate it.
Plaka is one of the longest and shallowest beaches in the Cyclades, a wide ribbon of pale sand and dunes with water that stays turquoise and knee-deep a long way out. It faces west, so the day ends in front of you. The same marble that built the ancient kouroi of this island runs through the walls of the suites, a quiet reminder that you are on the stone island of the Aegean. Cedar and juniper hold the dunes together, and the beach service reaches almost to the door.
There is no shortage of beach hotels on Naxos. Ammothines earns its place by restraint: design rooted in local material, a footprint kept low and close to the ground, and a beachfront setting it treats as the main event rather than a backdrop for branding. The caveats are honest ones. This is summer, beach-led and west-facing, at its best from late spring to early autumn; Plaka fills out in August; and anyone after a town base or a mountain hideaway should look elsewhere on the island. Come for the sand, the marble and the long slow sunset, and it delivers exactly that.
A longer reading of Ammothines: the dunes, the marble worked by hand and the pool at blue hour.
Read Folio No. 58 →
One selection at a time, in your inbox. Subscribe →
Plaka beach, south-west Naxos, Cyclades; directly behind the dunes, on the sand.
Cycladic suites in white marble and earthy textures; pool; low-key, design-led, beachfront.
Breakfast and beach service on site; the tavernas of Plaka and Mikri Vigla a short walk along the sand.
Plaka and Mikri Vigla beaches; Naxos Chora and the Portara; the marble villages and kouroi inland.
Free, one to one, on WhatsApp. Tell me your dates and I will point you to the right places.
Plan with me on WhatsApp