Sublime Comporta

Comporta is the part of Portugal that money found late and, so far, has mostly left alone. The estate sits in the middle of it, low timber cabins and villas scattered under the trees so that you rarely see your neighbour, each with its own patch of shade and, in many cases, a pool. The look is quiet and tactile: raw wood, linen, local stone, the sand of the dunes carried right up to the terraces. Two wings, Terracotta and Sand, now run as one, though the feeling holds across both, a place built to be moved through slowly.

The table

The kitchens lean on what the estate and the region give them. Sem Porta reworks Portuguese cooking with a lighter, contemporary hand; Food Circle gathers people around an open fire; Davvero brings an Italian accent, and the Beach Club puts you on the sand with the Atlantic doing the talking. A good part of the produce comes from the resort's own gardens, and the list runs long on Alentejo and Península de Setúbal wines. Breakfast, taken under the pines, is the meal people tend to remember.

Why it's in VANE

Comporta has become shorthand for a certain barefoot Portuguese luxury, and plenty of new places now trade on the name. Sublime got here early and understood the brief: keep the buildings low, keep the light and the pine, let the landscape carry the room. It has since grown into a large resort with a long roll of restaurants, and we will not pretend it is the small hideaway it began as. Book a cabana away from the main pool, walk out to Praia do Pego in the morning, and it still gives you the stillness that made the address famous.

VANE Folio

A closer reading of Sublime Comporta: the cabanas in the pine, the table that starts in the garden, and the near-empty coast a short drive west.