Name: Varoulko Seaside
Address: Piraeus, GR

Lefteris Lazarou more or less invented Greek fine-dining seafood, and he still runs the pass at this harbour room in Mikrolimano, tables almost on the water.

By Dimitris Stathopoulos

The cooking

Fish treated with respect and restraint: cuttlefish, sea urchin, the day's catch, cooked cleanly rather than smothered. A menu that reads the market, not the calendar.

Why it is in VANE

A founding figure of the modern Greek table, still cooking at the level that earned the reputation. The harbour setting is the bonus.

Where

Mikrolimano harbour, Piraeus

Kitchen

Chef Lefteris Lazarou

Style

Seafood, Mediterranean

Best for

A long seafood lunch by the boats

When

A clear day at Mikrolimano

VANE selection. Chosen with a critic's eye and judged independently. It's here because we judged it, not because it paid.
On this profile: a researched profile, drawn from the restaurant's own record and reporting, not a claim of a first-hand visit. Where we have eaten there, the review says so.
Image: original VANE artwork; photography to follow.