The table
Trippa
Milan · Italy
A modern trattoria in the Porta Romana quarter of Milan, opened in 2015 by the chef Diego Rossi and his partner Pietro Caroli, where offal and the cheaper cuts drive a short handwritten menu and the tripe that gives the room its name is taken seriously.
Italian and seasonal, built on the parts most kitchens send away. Diego Rossi writes the menu by hand each day from what the market and his suppliers bring in, and the plates lean towards offal and the humbler cuts, cooked with the care usually kept for prime ones. Tripe gives the room its name and stays on the card in several guises, alongside a risotto alla milanese finished with grilled bone marrow and a vitello tonnato regulars order without reading the list. Portions are generous and the prices stay within reach, which is the whole point of the place. The setting is a small corner room with burnt-orange walls, dark wood and paper placemats, a dozen or so tables that fill every night, the kitchen running in plain view. Pietro Caroli works the floor, quick and warm, and the cellar favours small Italian growers.
It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, the guide's mark for good cooking at a fair price, and keeps it year after year while booking out weeks ahead. That is the argument VANE cares about: eating well and eating dear are not the same thing. Rossi has taken the food a richer kitchen throws away, tripe and the cuts most menus skip, and made it the reason people cross Milan to a corner of Porta Romana rather than the centre. A researched profile, drawn from the restaurant's own record and Michelin's listing, not a first-hand VANE visit.
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