Hiša Franko, Kobarid
Restaurants · A researched profile

Hiša Franko

The Soča valley on a plate
Kobarid · Soča Valley
Photo: Dclemens1971, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)

Ana Roš's inn in the Soča valley near the Italian border, a self-taught kitchen that reads its own mountains and river with unusual clarity. Slovenia's landmark table.

I The house

An inn on the Soča

Hiša Franko is an inn at Staro selo, near Kobarid in the Soča valley of western Slovenia, close to the Italian border, mountains and a turquoise river on the doorstep. Ana Roš, largely self-taught, took over the kitchen and turned it into a landmark.

There was no fine-dining tradition here to lean on; the restaurant invented one from the valley up. It reads its own mountains and river with unusual clarity.

A dessert of the valley · Photo: Dclemens1971, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)
A dessert of the valley · Photo: Dclemens1971, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)
II The cooking

What the valley gives

The cooking is built almost entirely from what surrounds it: foraged herbs, valley trout, mountain cheeses and cured meats aged in the cellar. Personal and place-bound, closer to an essay than a menu.

It shifts with the season and the forage, so no two visits are quite alike. That is the point.

Foraged herbs and flowers, from the valley · Photo: Dclemens1971, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)
Foraged herbs and flowers, from the valley · Photo: Dclemens1971, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)

A restaurant invented from the valley up.

The reading

A great table in a place with no fine-dining past to lean on, made entirely from its own ground. Worth the journey, and the overnight.

The particulars
Where
Staro selo, Kobarid, Slovenia
Kitchen
Chef Ana Roš
Style
Terroir, Alpine-Mediterranean
Sourcing
Foraging, valley trout, mountain dairy
Best for
A stay-over dinner in the Soča valley

VANE selection. Chosen with a critic's eye and judged independently. It's here because we judged it, not because it paid. This is a researched profile, not yet a first-hand VANE verdict; where we have eaten there, the review says so.
Image: Photo: Dclemens1971, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)

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