Inside the Niarchos centre
Delta occupies a glass dining room high inside the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center at Faliro, the Renzo Piano complex that also holds the National Library and the Greek National Opera. Walls of glass open onto the park, the canal and the sea beyond; the setting, all light and water, is part of the meal.
It holds two Michelin stars, the only kitchen in Greece to do so, and is set inside a public cultural landmark rather than a hotel or a townhouse.
Greek, at the top of its register
The kitchen, led by George Papazacharias and Thanos Feskos, reads Greek produce through fermentation and a restraint learned in Scandinavian kitchens, course after course of a long tasting menu. Modern Greek cooking that has found its own argument.
It is a special-occasion table, priced and paced accordingly, and it holds its own against any capital's best.
Greek cooking on the same footing as any capital's best.
Proof that a Greek kitchen can stand at the top table on its own terms, in one of the finest rooms in Athens. Go at dusk, for the light over the park.
VANE selection. Chosen with a critic's eye and judged independently. It's here because we judged it, not because it paid. This is a researched profile, not yet a first-hand VANE verdict; where we have eaten there, the review says so.
In the city: our Athens food and travel guide, where to eat and what to see.
Image: Setting, the SNFCC park and canopy, Athens. Photo: Strange Traveler, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)
