La Réserve Ramatuelle

The approach gives little away. You climb through pines and vineyards on the Quessine road until the building appears, horizontal and pale, laid along the slope so that every room reads the same view: garden, umbrella pines, the curve of the coast and the sea beyond. Wilmotte kept the lines quiet and let the horizon do the work. Inside, the palette is cream and pale wood, curtains lifting in the draught off the terrace, a salon that opens end to end onto the water. There are rooms and suites in the main house and, lower down the domain, twelve villas of their own, each with a garden and a private pool. The mood is closer to a private house on the Riviera than to a resort.

The table

The table belongs to Éric Canino, whose cooking here holds two Michelin stars. It is light and largely vegetable-led, southern in flavour, restrained in technique, the kind of food that leaves you clear-headed rather than heavy. La Voile serves it under white sail-shades on the terrace, the Mediterranean directly below. The rest of the domain is easier: a brasserie, a pool restaurant through the day, and down on Pampelonne the beach outpost La Réserve à la plage.

Why it's in VANE

What sets the place apart is its Spa Nescens, a serious wellness centre given over to better-ageing, with programmes that read a guest's habits and set out to improve them over the long term. Few hotels of this address take health so literally, and fewer still make it feel unforced. La Réserve is where the Riviera goes to be quiet, a hillside retreat that answers the noise of the coast with space and a table that means it.