Villa Nai 3.3 olive estate meeting the Adriatic on Dugi Otok, the low hotel set among the groves
Folio No. 06 · A close reading

Villa Nai 3.3

Eight rooms inside a quarry
Dugi Otok · Dalmatia · Croatia
Photo: Villa Nai 3.3

On a long, sparsely peopled island off Zadar, the architect Nikola Bašić hollowed out a hillside beneath a five-hundred-year-old olive grove and left almost nothing standing above it. You sleep inside the quarry, and you eat what the grove gives.

I The quarry

Built from the stone it displaced

Villa Nai 3.3 is built from the stone it displaced. Bašić cut into the slope, lined the rooms with the rock he took out, and kept the roofline so low that from the water you would struggle to find the hotel at all. There are eight keys, five rooms and three suites, each with its own terrace opening onto the olives or the sea, and the place takes adults only.

The name carries the island's logic. Nai is old Dalmatian for snow, and Dugi Otok sees it about three times a winter, which the growers have always read as the sign of a good crop.

The seawater pool looking out over the Adriatic and offshore islets
Plate I · The seawater pool, the Adriatic beyond
II The rooms

Sleeping inside the rock

Inside, the rooms are lined with the same pale limestone the hill gave up, so the walls read as quarry rather than decoration. Each opens through glass to a terrace and the groves, and a seawater pool sits out among the trees with the Adriatic past it.

The quiet is the kind you notice on the first evening and again on the last. Nothing competes with the stone, the olives and the light off the water.

A suite with a four-poster bed against a bare stone wall A suite opening through glass to a terrace and the olive groves

We have rarely stayed somewhere so plainly an extension of its farm.

III The table

Two kitchens, and the oil

Two kitchens, both tied to the ground around them. Grotta 11000 is chiselled into the limestone and cooks over fire, charcoal grills and a hearth oven turning out Adriatic fish and whatever the boats land. The second table, called simply 3.3, sits among the groves and runs to longer, wine-paired dinners.

Threading through both is the estate's own oil, pressed at a mill that still works on site and named year after year the most awarded in Dalmatia.

Estate olive oil poured over a plated course at the table
Plate II · The estate's own oil, over the plate
The verdict

The idea here is singular and honest: a working olive estate that happens to put eight rooms underground, on an island most people reach by ferry and few have heard of. That remoteness is the point and also the catch. Come for the architecture, the silence and the oil, in that order, and it returns every hour the journey costs. That is why it is in VANE.

The particulars
Setting
Dugi Otok, off Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia, on a 500-year-old organic olive estate
Style
Adults-only; eight keys (five rooms, three suites) carved into the hillside; a seawater pool
The table
Grotta 11000, fire-cooked Adriatic; 3.3, wine-paired in the groves; a Lobby Bar and Cigar Room
On the land
A working olive mill and tasting room; Nai 3.3 olive oil; Three Michelin Keys
Nearby
Telašćica Nature Park and the Kornati islands; Zadar by ferry

Read on

Folio No. 05, La Donaira

Folio No. 05 · La Donaira

Folio
Folio No. 03, Cap Rocat

Folio No. 03 · Cap Rocat

Folio
Crete reads itself in olive oil

Crete, in olive oil

The Table
Where to swim, wild Mediterranean coves

Wild Mediterranean coves

Field Notes