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VANE
CURATED MEDITERRANEAN STAYS & TABLES

Folio.

Volume One
Eight Mediterranean houses, read closely
A VANE field guide · MMXXVI
VANE
The argument

We don't rate. We select.

VANE keeps a short list of Mediterranean houses worth the journey, judged on six plain things: a sense of place, a room that holds up, service that anticipates, a table that stands alone, soul, and honest value. No scores. The selection is the verdict.

The Folio is the long read of that list. Where a review settles the question of whether a house belongs, a Folio stays a while longer: the coast it sits on, the rooms, the table, the one idea that makes it itself. This first volume gathers eight of them, from a forgotten winery on the Ionian to a fortress on the Bay of Palma.

Read it before you book. It will save you the wrong week in the wrong place, and point you to the right one.

The houses

Contents

Dexamenes
Folio No. 01

Dexamenes

Kourouta · Ilia · Peloponnese

A 1920s seafront winery on the unhurried Ionian shore, its concrete fermentation tanks left bare by K-Studio and turned into suites. Few places trade so completely on restraint. It does not ask to be admired; it remembers what it was, and lets you sit inside the memory with the sea at the door. That is why it is in VANE.

Setting
Kourouta beach, western Peloponnese
Design
K-Studio, a conversion of a 1920s seafront winery
Rooms
44 suites, in the former tanks; sea-view extension 2025
The table
dex.Machina; dex.Silo.01, with chef Gikas Xenakis
VANE. Folio · Volume OneNo. 01
Domaine de Murtoli
Folio No. 02

Domaine de Murtoli

Ortolo Valley · Sartène · Corsica

A whole Corsican valley kept by one family, its abandoned shepherds' houses restored in granite. Plenty of places sell isolation; few own it outright. Figari airport sits barely half an hour away, yet a private valley with its own beach, its horses and its fishing boat quietly resets your idea of quiet. Give it the week it wants.

Setting
A 2,500-hectare private estate, between Sartène and Bonifacio
Style
Restored 17th-century bergeries, each with a pool; A Mandria
The table
La Table de la Ferme (one Michelin star, chef Laurent Renard); la Plage; la Grotte
On the land
Private beach, a 12-hole golf course, horses, a working farm
VANE. Folio · Volume OneNo. 02
Cap Rocat
Folio No. 03

Cap Rocat

Cala Blava · Bay of Palma · Mallorca

A nineteenth-century coastal fortress whose gun emplacements and watchtowers became rooms. Mallorca is not short of hotels, and most you could lift onto another coast without anyone noticing. Cap Rocat could only stand here: a piece of military history someone refused to let crumble, holding the modern world at arm's length without fuss.

Setting
A listed coastal fortress on the Bay of Palma, Cala Blava
Style
Restored by Antonio Obrador; rooms in the ramparts; a Europa Nostra award
The table
La Fortaleza, inside the keep; the Sea Club, at the shore
On the land
A spa cut into the rock; a 30-hectare nature reserve
VANE. Folio · Volume OneNo. 03
Dar Ahlam
Folio No. 04

Dar Ahlam

Skoura · Ouarzazate · Morocco

A restored kasbah in the Skoura palm grove that has refused to behave like a hotel for twenty-five years: no keys, no reception, no menu. Plenty of places sell silence and a good dinner; few hand the whole stay over to someone else and get it right. Give in to it, and southern Morocco opens up from a base that feels like a private home with unusually good instincts.

Setting
The Skoura palm grove, near Ouarzazate, southern Morocco
Style
Restored kasbah, fourteen suites; rammed-earth Berber architecture
The table
No menu; plant-based and oasis-grown; a setting for each meal
On the land
Garden and pool; orchestrated excursions, the dunes to the road south
VANE. Folio · Volume OneNo. 04
La Donaira
Folio No. 05

La Donaira

Serranía de Ronda · Andalusia

An off-grid estate high in the Serranía de Ronda where the farm sets the rhythm, not the front desk. Most luxury sells you a view and a spa. La Donaira sells you a working estate and asks you to step into its rhythm, a braver and rarer thing. Come for a few unhurried days, ride out if you ride, and let a place that gives back more than it takes do its work on you.

Setting
An off-grid estate near Montecorto, inland Andalusia
Style
Eco-retreat and working organic farm; a century-old cortijo, glass suites, yurts
The table
A seed-to-plate kitchen, included; estate produce and its own natural wines
On the land
Some 700 hectares; a Lusitano stud; a spa with a pool
VANE. Folio · Volume OneNo. 05
Villa Nai 3.3
Folio No. 06

Villa Nai 3.3

Dugi Otok · Dalmatia · Croatia

An adults-only hotel carved into a Dugi Otok hillside beneath a five-hundred-year-old olive grove, so low you can barely find it from the water. The idea is singular and honest: a working olive estate that happens to put eight rooms underground. Come for the architecture, the silence and the oil, in that order, and it returns every hour the journey costs.

Setting
Dugi Otok, off Zadar, on a 500-year-old organic olive estate
Style
Adults-only; eight keys carved into the hillside; a seawater pool
The table
Grotta 11000, fire-cooked Adriatic; 3.3, wine-paired in the groves
On the land
A working olive mill; Nai 3.3 olive oil; Three Michelin Keys
VANE. Folio · Volume OneNo. 06
Amanzoe
Folio No. 07 · A researched profile

Amanzoe

Porto Heli · Argolis · Peloponnese

Aman's reading of classical Greece rendered in modern stone, drawn by Edward Tuttle from the temple and the agora. Ambition made legible: a hilltop rewritten as a modern acropolis, with the sea for a horizon and Aman's discipline holding it together. We have not yet stayed, so this stands as a researched profile rather than a first-hand verdict. On the evidence, it earns the closer look.

Setting
A hilltop above Porto Heli, eastern Peloponnese
Architecture
Edward Tuttle; landscape by Doxiadis+
Rooms
38 Pavilions with private pools, beach units, 12 Villas
The table
Mediterranean and Greek; a poolside washoku venue; Nura at the Beach Club

A researched profile, not yet a first-hand VANE verdict. A full review carries a stay date, an independence disclosure and the writer's own account.

VANE. Folio · Volume OneNo. 07
Iniala Valletta
Folio No. 08

Iniala Valletta

Valletta · Grand Harbour · Malta

Four restored 17th-century townhouses on the harbour wall, where three studios made twenty-three rooms that swing from hand-painted jungle to bare concrete. Choose your room the way you would choose a restaurant, by mood. A serious design hotel with a serious kitchen, built into the walls of a working harbour town, and there is nothing else on the island that comes close.

Setting
St Barbara Bastion, above Valletta's Grand Harbour
Style
Four townhouses, 23 rooms; interiors by Autoban, A-cero, DAAA Haus
The table
ION Harbour by Simon Rogan (two Michelin stars); ION at Sea
On the land
Essensi spa in the stone undercroft; plunge-pool suites
VANE. Folio · Volume OneNo. 08
The fine print

Credits and a promise

Every house here was chosen with a critic's eye and judged independently. It is in VANE because it cleared the bar, not because it paid. Where we have stayed, the verdict is first-hand; where we have not, it is marked as a researched profile and disclosed.

We select what's worth your time and money. If a place is here, it cleared the bar. If it is missing, it did not.

VANE